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BFA-555 Input board for ADCOM GFA-555 MK1 EARLY Rack-Mount Models

Improved input board for somewhat rare, very early-model Adcom GFA-555 Mark 1 amplifiers. If your back panel looks like this, with the oval RCA jack cutout, then this is the board you need. Send me a message if you’re not sure which board you need.

**Not for currently produced GFA-555 “SE” or “MS” models, or newer GFA-555 MKII models from the early 90s. MKI amps can be identified by the lack of a “Thermal Protection” LED on the front panel. They are also simply labeled “model GFA-555” whereas the MKII is labeled “model GFA-555 II”.  MKII board is available here.

Later rack-mount 555’s used either the most common horizontal board, or the vertical board, both of which I sell.

The oval cut-out left in the chassis from the removal of the original RCA jacks, leaves a technician without anywhere to mount the RCA jacks, so this kit also includes an RCA jack adapter plate, and a pair of gold-plated RCA jacks. Thus, the price is a little higher than the regular GFA-555 board.

Legend has it that the “GFA” in GFA-555 stands for “Good effing amplifier”. Ahem… With this improved board, model BFA-555, you will have a “Better effing amplifier”. See what I did there?

Features:

Support:

This is an advanced electronics project. You should have some experience repairing audio amplifiers. Please read through the documentation before ordering.

30 minutes free tech support is included with every purchase. Time beyond 30 minutes is billed at $75/hour. This includes time spent researching your issue, writing emails and talking on the phone.

I am happy to provide technical support, but please anticipate paying for for my time as part of the cost of your project. Tech support time is always billed, whether the issue is yours, mine or one of my suppliers.

Alternately, consider asking your question on a forum such as DIYAUDIO.COM. Send me a link and I may comment on the thread.

DOCUMENTATION:

Hoppe’s Brain BFA-555 MK1 EARLY Rack-Mount Assembly Notes

BFA-555 MK1 Input Board Schematic Diagram

Parts List

ADCOM BOMs – Parts upgrades and substitutions for the rest of the amplifier.

Also recommended reading: Another Tour of a Hoppe’s Brain GFA-555 Restoration, 5 years later, with better technology. This article contains detailed documentation on every aspect of a 555 restoration.

Hoppe’s Brain Do-Over policy

Has this happened to you? You’re installing or testing a Hoppe’s Brain PCB and the magic smoke gets out somehow? It happens to every tech, including me, see below. (Backwards transistor, oops.)

This is a bummer, and a lot of work to fix, and even if this PCB was repaired, it wouldn’t look very nice. I want my customer’s projects to look and work nice! I don’t make the boards so pretty just for people to have scorch marks on them.

If your board is smoked, and you want a do-over, here is my “Do-Over” policy. I’ve been doing this for people for years, but haven’t defined it officially until now.

It’s no secret that quality PCB’s have become cheap to manufacture. The PCB itself is not where the value lies in buying a Hoppe’s Brain board. The value is in their design, and the support I provide. The actual board is a tiny percentage of my own costs. (Parts, however are increasingly expensive and I don’t mark them up much.)

So, if you have well and truly smoked your board and want a new one, I can offer you that at close to free.

My boards come in three flavors; Board-Only, Board with Parts, and Fully Assembled.

If you bought:

  • Board-Only: A new board for free, plus shipping, about $10 continental US.
  • Board with parts: A new board for free, plus shipping, but I cannot sell individual repair parts. All parts are available at reputable vendors like Mouser and Digikey. Part numbers are in my ADCOM BOMs document linked here.
  • Fully Assembled:
    • A new bare board for free, plus shipping, and you perform your own repair, with your own parts. ~or~
    • Send it to me for repair at a rate of $75/hr, capped at $200 maximum. No parts charge. If I cannot re-work the board to work perfectly, and look decent, I will just replace it entirely. If I wouldn’t use it, I won’t send it to you.
I cannot repair or troubleshoot customer-assembled boards. This is a “pack your own parachute” type situation.

Proof of Destruction:

I don’t need your board back, but before I can send you a new board, I need proof you have destroyed the original.

Just drill a big hole through it and send me the picture! (Harvest the parts you want to keep first.)

 

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